Chain Leader

Lane Cardwell

Sexy Steak
April 4, 2008

Phil Romano has had a lot of successful concepts in his restaurant career. After a string of increasingly popular restaurants in South Florida, he opened what was to be his first chain, Fuddrucker's, in San Antonio in the early '80's. He hasn't slowed down since. Romano's Macaroni Grill, Spageddies, Rudy's BBQ, Cozymel's, and Eatzi's. Phil has been a prolific creator of chain concepts for the masses. When he mentioned to me his plans to develop an upscale steakhouse, I remembered hoping that he wasn't overreaching in his goals. I worried needlessly.

Phil's steakhouse, Nick & Sam's, is not just another successful purveyor of prime beef and seafood. Texas has a lot of these. It is a successful, sexy purveyor of prime beef and seafood. Nick & Sam's is the only truly sexy steakhouse in Texas. I can't say in the country because I'm not through looking yet. Named after his young son, Sam, and a friend's son, Nick, the concept oozes the charm and charisma that has made Phil one of our industry's more quotable legends.

Nick & Sam's, located in Dallas, is a 9 year old prime steakhouse. That is 63 years old in people years. Smith & Wollensky's has come and gone. Fleming's Prime has come and gone. A branch of Morton's has closed. Phil's little baby is going strong. Is the economic slowdown starting to impact the high end segment? Nick & Sam's did almost $10 million last year and is still gaining. Dinner only.

Phil's secret has always been to focus on doing more than what is expected, and doing it in ways that are unexpected. Nick & Sam's has a complimentary caviar bar in the wine room at the front of the restaurant. Caviar is also served to you when you are first seated at the table. I pity the poor accountant who first mentioned to Phil the money that he could save by not doing this. Or the money that he could save by not having the grand piano and piano player in the exhibition kitchen. Or the profits that he could pocket by charging closer to market price for many of his prime steaks.

Phil makes it all up saving on electricity by keeping the lighting set low like the level you would find in a hot nightclub. And the house music to match. Some nights I believe that the piano player is truly there to keep the kitchen staff entertained. The dining rooms are surrounded by wine bottles on display on the walls. Votive candles, spaced around the wine bottles, set an intimate mood. The energy level is loud because the customers are all having such a great time.

When Sam was 5 or 6, I remember watching him work the dining room like the owner that he was. Dressed in a suit and tie, he would approach a table and ask if everything was excellent. Then he would hand the startled diners his business card with the title "Dishwasher and Owner".

I had dinner with Phil, and two of our partners in Eatzi's one night after we had opened our Houston location. Those two partners, Rich Melman and Al Copeland, began discussing with Phil the idea of opening a steakhouse together. After 10 minutes of exchanging ideas on how the concept might be crafted, Phil told them, "Let's stay friends, save a lot of time and money, and each build one our own way."

It always gives me great pleasure on two levels to dine at Nick & Sam's. The first is as a customer who is so pleased to be on the receiving end of an excellent experience and value. The second is as a friend, and former partner, who loves seeing Phil so successful at what he does best. Putting sex appeal into restaurant concepts.

Posted by Lane Cardwell on April 4, 2008 | Comments (0)