Lane Cardwell

Grape Nuts

"Wine is sunlight, held together by water." --Galileo Galilei, 1564-1642, astronomer

Evolution in the world of wine moves at a snail’s pace, but it does move. It was just over 25 years ago that the restaurant community started offering more than token selections of wines-by-the-glass, instead of trying to only sell whole bottles. What used to be offered by the glass were usually wines of the lowest common denominator. A white, a red, and maybe a pink.
 

What resulted when better wines were offered by the glass was a lot of experimentation with brands and varietals. It became possible to buy something that seemed interesting for the cost of a glass, but not interesting enough to invest in a bottle. A couple at a table no longer had to agree on a specific bottle in order for wine to be part of the experience. Red or white no longer mattered, when red and white was an option.

The first evolution that occurred with wines-by-the-glass in restaurants was the introduction of the Cruvinet. This machine was available for various numbers of bottles, and replaced the wine that was poured with nitrogen that kept the remaining wine fresh. It was evidence that you were drinking wine from a place that invested in the integrity of what you were being sold. Wine degrades once opened and must be sold quickly, disposed of, or sold in a less than ideal condition. Cruvinets looked good behind the bar, and made it possible to offer some higher end wines. However, the cost kept most restaurants from making the commitment.

The most recent evolution, and the one that stands to make the biggest impact on wine, is from an Italian company called Enomatic. If you have not seen one of their wine dispensers yet, I predict you will before this time next summer. The wine dispensers that Enomatic produces are a Cruvinet-style machine with one important difference—the customer gets to do the dispensing. In their most popular format they allow a customer to use a prepaid card that puts them in control.

The payment card is inserted into the wine tasting machine, and it displays the amount of money available. The wine drinker places their glass in front of the bottle they are interested in, chooses a 1 oz. taste, a 3 oz. half-glass, or a full 6 oz. glass with the touch of a button. The prices of each pouring size are shown before purchasing. The bottle price is usually shown for reference and for a later purchase. A full description of each wine is shown to help with the decision making process.

Available for 4 or 8 bottles, these tasting machines are just now popping up in wine bars and wine-oriented restaurants. They are also available without the customer ordering system, no prepaid card, but this really reduces them to being just another Cruvinet behind the bar for the staff to use. It is the wine card in the hands of the customer that sends them into a frenzy of exploration and experimentation.

A new franchise location of St. Petersburg-based Tastings opened recently in Grapevine, TX (near DFW airport). It is on a street filled with other wine bars, and retail shops featuring the wines of their related vineyards. What sets Tastings apart? 11 Enomatic wine tasting machines along one wall that feature 88 wines available by the taste, half glass, or glass. 56 reds and 32 whites at the touch of a button. The customer is now in control of the pace, selection, portion size and price of what they decide to drink. Ever wondered what Opus One tasted like, but didn’t want to spend $200 on a bottle? Try a one-ounce taste.

Put a room full of adults in front of these wine machines, with their Dave & Buster’s-like Power Cards, and stand back. The sound you hear is the last barrier to wine enjoyment being knocked down. Go nuts.

Posted by Lane Cardwell on August 8, 2008 | Comments (2)