Lane Cardwell

Burger Smackdown

Texas finally got its first Five Guys Burgers and Fries. It opened last week in Dallas. I was starting to feel paranoid about our place in the chain universe. I mean, for crying out loud, even Utah and West Virginia got one before we did. Doesn't anyone in the Five Guys real estate department understand the reverence that we place on chains, burgers and fries in this state? Well, it's open, so all is forgiven. Now the residents of Dallas will determine if the reality of the concept lives up to the hype. To speed things along I thought that I would offer my opinions on the concept, and how it compares to two other burger concepts in the area.
 
You might think that Five Guys is a relatively new concept that has just burst on the scene with a frenetic expansion program. You would be half right. In 2002 there were 5 locations. Today there are over 300. However, the concept began in 1986. The five guys are the sons of the founders. On to the comparisons.
 
Five Guys Burgers and Fries
 
Designed to go into small spaces in strip centers, malls, and even ballparks. The interior is white with red checkerboard squares. Everywhere. The decor consists of signs with the headlines from rave reviews, and magazine article review reprints. Bags of potatoes line the aisle leading up to the order window. Half of the menu board is devoted to reminding you that the burgers are fresh ground American beef, and that the fries are fresh cut and cooked in peanut oil.
 
The menu is simple. Burgers, hot dogs, fries and soft drinks. All of the toppings are free. These include the usual suspects, but also include grilled onions and grilled mushrooms. A slice of American cheese is 60¢. Peanuts are available to munch on while you wait. With peanut oil and peanuts, Five Guys has apparently decided that it can afford to miss out on the 1% of the population who suffer from a peanut allergy. Personally, I prefer fries cooked in peanut oil. I like the flavor that it imparts.
 
The burger patties are 3.2 oz. (5:1), so a regular burger with two patties would be 6.4 oz. Short of a half pound, but over an ounce larger than a third pound burger. The meat is an 80/20 ratio, which is normally considered the best mixture for a juicy burger. Fries are offered as regular or large, and served in a plain white Styrofoam cup. A Five Guys tradition is to put an extra portion of fries into the bag with your order. That extra portion averages the same size as the fries that you just purchased.
 
The fries were outstanding. The burger was very, very good. The only weakness was that the bun shrivels and wrinkles due to the moisture trapped in the aluminum foil wrapper it is served in.
 
All orders are packaged to go. You place your order at the counter, pay, and pick it up when your number is called.

Prices: Cheeseburger--$4.99
              Regular Fries--$2.49
 

Mooyah Burgers and Fries
 
Rich Hicks, a co-founder of Tin Star, and Todd Istre opened their version of a burger concept last year. They have three Mooyahs open in the Dallas market, with an aggressive franchise program underway. They studied the Five Guys concept, as well as others across the country, and have made improvements to the Five Guys offering.
 
The burgers are similar enough in taste to call it a tie, although a slight edge would have to be given to Mooyah for the bun holding up a little better to the moisture trapped in the foil wrapper. Same size patties, same 80/20 ratio, same fresh meat. Same extended ingredient offerings for free, but only 50¢ for a slice of American or Swiss cheese. Their fries are fresh cut and cooked in a no-cholesterol oil. Apparently, they didn't want to lose the 1% peanut allergy demographic. I thought that the Mooyah fries looked better, and the Five Guys fries tasted better. Other differences to the Five Guys menu include the addition of a turkey burger, a veggie burger and shakes.
 
Similar size facilities to Five Guys, and a similar look, except that Mooyah uses red and black rectangles on a white background, instead of red and white checkerboard designs on a white background. Battles must have raged over that decision.
 
All orders are packaged to go. You place your order at the counter, pay, and pick it up when your number is called.
 
If you like Five Guys, you will probably like Mooyah. If you don't like Five Guys, you still might like Mooyah. That is the true sign of "plussing up" instead of merely copying.
 
Prices: Cheeseburger--$4.69
              Regular Fries--$2.09
 

Fuddrucker's
 
In 1980, Phil Romano turned the restaurant world on its ear with this groundbreaking concept that started in San Antonio. Some things have changed over time. A butcher no longer stands in a glassed-in room at the front of the restaurant butchering a side of beef in full view of the waiting customers. The menu has grown to include many of the staples of casual dining. A British gentleman owns the concept. But the things that made this concept great are unchanged.
 
Fresh ground beef, freshly baked and buttered buns, and an extensive produce bar of toppings are the signature elements of this concept offering "The World's Greatest Hamburgers". The burgers are offered in various size patties: 1/3 lb., 1/2 lb., 2/3 lb. and 1 lb. Personally, I prefer a thicker patty to two thinner patties, although the cooking time is noticeably longer.
 
Fuddrucker's produce bar has an extensive selection of toppings, but no premium items for free like at Five Guys or Mooyah. Grilled mushrooms, free at the other concepts, are 99¢. Grilled onions and cheese are 59¢. Unlike the other concepts, cheddar cheese is an option.
 
Fuddrucker's was one of the first chain fast casual concepts. You order and pay at the counter, and pick up your order when called. The concept now suffers from menu bloat, but it still serves an outstanding burger. Better than Five Guys or Mooyah? The difference in patty size makes it a matter of personal opinion. The thick cut wedge fries, however, are not competitive to the fresh fries in the newer concepts.
 
Prices: 1/3 lb. Cheeseburger--$4.98 (one ounce less than above concepts)
              Regular Fries--$1.89
 
 
I find it almost amusing that with each of these burger concepts you still have to listen for your number to be called, and trek back up to the counter to get your order. At Whataburger, a fast food burger chain that started in 1950, they give you a number to place on your table and bring the food to you. Maybe the next round of burger smackdown will involve service, instead of food quality.
 
 

Posted by Lane Cardwell on July 9, 2008 | Comments (6)