Lane Cardwell

The New Venture Adventure

Ray Kroc chose the hamburger. Colonel Harland Sanders went with fried chicken. William Rosenberg selected the donut. Glen Bell took the taco. Steve Ells picked the burrito. Todd Graves decided on chicken fingers. And Lex Berlin is placing his bet on tortas. What is a torta and who is Lex Berlin?
 
A torta is a grilled Mexican deli sandwich. It is claimed that more tortas are consumed daily in Mexico than all tacos and enchiladas combined. The bread that is used is called telera, kind of an Italian roll style bread, only broader, that is baked fresh daily. Tortas tend to take on the flavor characteristics of the Mexican regions where they are consumed; not too different than the preferences of different types of sandwiches in various parts of the U.S. Commonly used ingredients include breaded Milanese steak, barbacoa, chiles rellenos, roasted pibil pork, pumpkinseed mole, cotija cheese, and pineapple-mango pico de gallo. 
 
A well made torta takes the concept of a sandwich to new heights. Lex Berlin is the founder of Tio's Tortas in Dallas, a less than two-year-old purveyor of some of the best examples of this Mexican staple that I have had on either side of the border. Lex is a former chef to a Palm Beach billionaire. Ran a catering company. Worked at the original Macaroni Grill and was with them through the early growth push. Worked with me at Eatzi's. Helped Lufthansa Airlines, Central Market, and the Brennan family of New Orleans each create a home meal replacement concept. Unlike many who start a new restaurant, he knew what he was getting into.

There are three ways to get into the restaurant business. You can franchise an existing concept. You can buy an existing restaurant. You can start something new. There is nothing harder, riskier, and rewarding than creating something new, and testing your skills and stamina in the marketplace. Most people only get to experience the harder and riskier part, not the rewards.
 
While at Steak and Ale, and then at Brinker, I was the person who received all of the calls from people hoping to sell us their ideas, or single unit restaurants. They averaged 3 per day, every day, for almost 15 years. I would always tell the caller that there was not a lack of good ideas in this industry. We had a drawer full of them ourselves. There was a lack of qualified people who could breathe life into an idea, and restaurant companies did not have these kinds of people waiting around to be assigned a new restaurant idea to develop. We would usually get these calls when they realized how hard it was to raise money, obtain a location, create the systems to execute the menu, etc.
 
In my 30 years in this industry I have known many people who have gone out on their own and started something new. Some have been very successful, and made a lot of money. Some have done well and are making a living doing something they love. Most were not successful. Even billion dollar restaurant companies have more failures than successes when starting up new ideas. The deck is certainly stacked against individuals.
 
Lex has worked hard to tilt the odds in his favor with Tio's Tortas. He serves a variety of high quality tortas. He won an award for the best condiment bar in Dallas. The new reviewer for the Dallas paper named Tio's as one of his Top 10 Delicious Discoveries. His fresh cut curly fries are mentioned as some of the city's best fries. He is on the receiving end of a lot of praise from the various restaurant review blogs in Dallas.
 
Like many new restaurant ventures, Lex did a lot of the carpentry himself to keep his investment down. The tables and gazebo-like patio were built by him. He is the executive chef, chief people officer, chief marketing officer, chief financial officer, busboy, and morale officer. No other industry tests the limits and the abilities of an individual, or group, in a startup situation like ours.
 
Is Tio's successful? It is cash flowing after paying all expenses. It is building sales momentum in a tough environment in a competitive city. He and his investors are looking for a second location. The concept has raving fans. It certainly meets my criteria of success for a new venture.
 
I love seeing former colleagues doing well. Especially if they are improving our industry with their efforts. If you go by, tell Lex I said hi. He will be there. Like any other restaurant startup owner, he is always there.
 
 

Posted by Lane Cardwell on May 12, 2008 | Comments (6)