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Same old, same old integrity
April 10, 2008

   I came across the following paragraph in a column about the meaning of "integrity." I believe many foodservice executives -- especially marketers -- would agree with the branding expert who wrote it:

Even if someone is paying $6 or less for a snack or a meal, that food should taste the same each time. It should have the same feel in the mouth, be the same size serving, look the same and smell the same. Then you have integrity, and consumers can trust what they are buying.

   As for me, I ask why? Why should look, taste and smell be precisely alike each time the product is served -- all in the name of "integrity"? Isn't that the role of manufactured foods, like those deep-fried, pizza-flavored wonton rolls you pull from the freezer? You pour something from a box, they should all look the same. Malformations always go into the trash. 

 But a restaurant meal (snack, whatever), even at the lowest rungs of the business, should offer at least the semblance of hand-crafting.  Chef-driven restaurants do. So do some fast-feeders. For example, Chipotle (driven by a CEO chef) prepares your meal in front you. Granted, the tortillas look the same but the way the ingredients are heaped into it vary, depending on a customer's instructions. Panera Bread, which doesn't use grills, nonetheless offers chicken breast with grill marks, making it look like a human hand was at work. Neither chain, despite a weak economy, seems to be suffering.
   Some years ago, I was writing a profile of a drive-thru fast-feeder. Needing illustration, we hired a photographer who stopped by one of the units and purchased and photographed the chain's signature product. When the marketing vice president called to ask if we needed photos, I told him we'd photographed the burger. 
   He was livid. Admitting the prize product looked pretty bad when served, he insisted we use his photos. To calm him down, I told him I'd have a look. As I suspected, the shots resembled plastic models instead of the drippy, greasy stack we ran with the story. I bet that picture started a few stomachs rumbling, for better or worse.
   "A foolish consistency is the hobgoblin of little minds," wrote transcendentalist Henry David Thoreau, long before marketing research revealed that foolish consistency could in fact make some restaurant companies rich. Today, restaurants that produce food that looks, smells, and tastes exactly the same, day in and day out, seem out of touch with current notions of customization and hand-crafting.

Posted by David Farkas on April 10, 2008 | Comments (10)


Industries: Marketing
April 10, 2008
In response to: Same old, same old integrity
Lane commented:

I believe that one of the appeals of Five Guys Burgers is every burger looks different. Hand pattied burgers come out looking like snowflakes. Every one is unique




April 10, 2008
In response to: Same old, same old integrity
Steve commented:

Great post, I agree with you! I only wish the indusrty insiders would begin to understand! Until then, let the independents gain share!




April 10, 2008
In response to: Same old, same old integrity
Same old, same old integrity commented:

Integrity has much to do with expectations. I think restaurants should strive to be consistant once a menu item is offered. That doesn't mean it can't be skillfully hand crafted exactly, each time, with highest quality ingredients and attention to detail. The customer's high expectations that great dishes will be repeated over and over is what gets them coming back.




April 10, 2008
In response to: Same old, same old integrity
One opinion commented:

Agreed a slightly different look is certainly acceptable but...a significant difference in TASTE is something else. I think that this true in an independent or a chain.




April 10, 2008
In response to: Same old, same old integrity
Dave commented:

Yes indeed. It is all about skillful handcrafting each time. That's a very useful insight. Thanks.




April 10, 2008
In response to: Same old, same old integrity
Paul B. commented:

Agreed ... I'm no longer in the "industry" I went commercial (Hospital Food Service Mgnt.) Wendy's needs to read this if they are ever going to dig out of the hole THEY created. I read were Micky D make take them over .. I just shuttered at the thought.




April 10, 2008
In response to: Same old, same old integrity
Phil commented:

I submit the idea of my favorite restaurant. Every time I end up in that town, I order the same thing (angel hair pasta with creamy gorganzola sauce with dry vermouth and black olives. I order it because I love the dish! I don't order it because I hope it tastes different from the other 25 times I have eaten it. While I applaud individuality in any workplace, I (and many people who come into my restaurant)don't focus on the negative of consistency. We applaud those who take our memory of a taste and reward us with another dose. Ask the dedicated breakfast customer (the one who has been ordering the same thing for 3 years if he/she minds if we freestyle his Eggs Benedict with Asparagus so we can fulfill our need to be creative. Whether bored with consistency or just plain bored, I always applaud the ability to make something wonderful. Even if it was wonderful last time too.




April 11, 2008
In response to: Same old, same old integrity
Mike S. commented:

While your position on consistency probably makes a lot of chefs happy, I am in the business of pleasing my guests. Often I've observed that most CIA grads can't even grill a steak to temp so encouraging them to make food inconsistently is unnecessary. Challenging chefs to follow a recipe just once without “making it their own” as if it was an American Idol competition would be much more demanding of their skills. Customers that come to my restaurants do so because the food tastes GREAT every time, not DIFFERENT every time. Frankly, if a chef cannot replicate a fantastic dish, I’ll be happy to let them work for those restaurants that will be out of business next year because their guests grew frustrated at rolling the dice on dinner. If you don’t mind, I will continue my efforts to CONSISTENTLY please my guests.




April 11, 2008
In response to: Same old, same old integrity
Dan P commented:

I could not agree more with this column. When I look at the picture of an item at a fast food restaurant my mouth waters but my brain says "good luck"! And when I get it and open the wrapper, it looks like someone stepped on it. I much prefer customization that is why I rarely visit fast food places (other than Hardee's) and rarely am tempted to go to a restaurant that shows a picture of food as I know it will not look the same at presentation unless it is a "chef" driven restaurant...Every chain looks the same that is the real problem (except for the salad bar at Ruby Tuesday's) now that is great eating!




April 11, 2008
In response to: Same old, same old integrity
Donald E. Carlson commented:

Consistency in recipes is everything in maintaining a successful business. Howard Johnson proved that theory years ago. Travelers, businessmen, and vacationers sought out that orange roof because it was a safe place to eat in a strange town. The food was mediocre at best, but you knew what you would get no matter where in the country you traveled.





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