Burgerville's new Yukon & White Bean Burger with basil mayonnaise was designed to communicate gourmet quality, and local freshness. Walla Walla Onion Rings are a popular locally sourced summer feature.

Locavores have been stinging in their criticism of "big box" chains' contribution to the commoditization of America's food system. And yet there's been little support for operators who wish to turn that monolithic wheel in a different direction. But that doesn't mean the dialogues aren't happening. Changes are under way.

Following the lead of independent and regional-chain operators, multi-region chains are discussing ways to locally source ingredients. All agree that there are flavor, quality and community benefits. But chains have the added challenge of trying to do this consistently, safely and affordably at large numbers of restaurants.

Operators are taking different approaches. Some feature local produce in regional, limited-time offers. Others source local products at peak season only. Still others find local sources for core menu items such as dairy and meat that are available year-round.

When Burgerville's very popular Walla Walla Onion Rings are not in season, the company now offers locally sourced Yukon Gold Fries during the winter and spring.

"We met our goal of serving at least 25 percent of at least one of these produce items in each of our markets," says Chris Arnold, public relations director for the 800-plus-unit fast-casual concept. The program will be back this summer, with plans to increase that percentage, although Chipotle can't yet say by how much.

Pittsburgh-based Eat'n Park Hospitality Group has also pushed toward a larger, locally grown food supply for its 78 restaurants. Currently the family-dining chain features seven or eight local produce items on the salad bar and throughout the menu from June to October. As well, all of Eat'n Park's pork and most of its dairy products are locally sourced year-round.

"Local sourcing is very doable," says Jamie Moore, director of sourcing and sustainability for the chain. "All you really need is a distributor who is willing to switch to sourcing locally when local product is available. That, and having somebody on staff who is active in local agricultural circles."

Jamie Moore, director of sourcing and sustainability for Eat'n Park, says there's no substitute for getting out and visiting local farms.

For larger chains to source local product, Moore believes they also have to change some procedures. Value-added products, for example, such as vegetables that have been chopped, diced or sliced, may have to go by the wayside. "It's very hard to do a local tomato if you have to have it processed." Moore explains.

To control costs, he says it's also important to work with suppliers to grow products to specification. "You also need to limit yourself to items in peak season and plentiful availability," he adds. Strawberries, for example, begin to be available in May, but Moore waits until July when supply is most plentiful and costs lower. Every Monday, Eat'n Park posts an updated list of locally sourced ingredients on the salad bar rather that listing them on the menu. "That way if something's only available for a week, it's okay," he says.

Taking a different approach, McCormick & Schmick's, the Portland, Ore.-based, 86-unit seafood concept, has always built regional recipes into menus on a local basis, says Bill King, vice president of culinary development and corporate chef. Regional chefs develop relationships with local purveyors to obtain the ingredients for these specials.

While Dan Admire, vice president of culinary for Leawood, Kan.-based Houlihan's, thinks a "specials" approach is a start, "We're ultimately thinking much larger scale than that. We're asking the question, what ingredients universally apply? What can we find 'best of' regional versions for in every market?"

Since decentralizing its produce supply chain, Noodles & Company has been able to source bean sprouts, such as the ones the Japanese Pan Noodles, year round.

Broomfield, Colo.-based Noodles & Company, which has 204 fast-casual units in 18 states, is also exploring what works. Three years after switching from a national distribution system to local produce sourcing, Noodles is sourcing all of its cabbage locally when in season and all of its bean sprouts year-round. Before the end of the year, the company will likely complete its transition to locally sourced milk.

"It's much more complex for us to have local produce suppliers in every region, but we really feel local sourcing is the right thing to do," says Dawn Voss, chief administrative officer overseeing culinary and supply. The big challenge, she says, is finding the right balance between price, availability, quality and size, all of which makes local sourcing a complex formula.

For others still trying to figure out that formula Vancouver, Wash.-based Burgerville provides inspiration. The 39-unit quick-service hamburger chain partners with 14 local suppliers for year-round supply of everything from pickles to cage-free eggs. Another four suppliers provide the produce for recurring seasonal specials such as local berry milkshakes and Walla Walla Sweet Onion rings in summer, and Sweet Potato Fries and Pumpkin milkshakes during the fall.

"The whole idea is to raise the bar for QSR by serving local ingredients at the peak of season in gourmet fashion," says Jack Graves, chief cultural officer.

New this year, Burgerville has added locally sourced Yukon Gold waffle cut french fries and upped the frequency of new menu items made from local ingredients. "We're looking at one or two per month," says Graves. The Yukon & White Bean Basil Burger, $5.29, a veggie patty made with potatoes, northern white beans, mushrooms and grains and topped with lettuce, tomato and basil mayo, was first up in February. In March, rosemary month, features include Rosemary Shoestring Potatoes and Slow-Roasted Rosemary Chicken Sandwich.

While Burgerville is a regional concept with all of its units in the Pacific Northwest, a national chain could take some cues, says Graves, by featuring best regional foods that are at peak season, rather than just having the same limited time offer across the country. His one caveat: "You have to be learn to be flexible because you're dealing with Mother Nature here."